BASIC CARE OF KING & MILKSNAKES

Introduction
Kingsnakes and Milksnakes are members of the family Lampropeltis. They occur in North and South America as well as many subspecies in the continental United States. The most popular of the Kingsnake family includes the

Californian Kingsnake ( Lampropeltis getulus californiae ) and the Greybanded Kingsnake ( Lampropeltis alterna ). The most commonly kept Milksnakes include the Honduran Milksnakes ( Lampropeltis triangulum hondurensis ) and the Sinaloan Milksnake ( Lampropeltis triangulum sinaloae ). Kingsnakes and Milksnakes are popular in the hobby for a variety of reasons the main ones being they are easy to keep, easy to breed and are available in a vast variety of different colour and pattern morphs.

Housing
Kingsnakes & Milksnakes should be housed separately because of the cannibalistic qualities of these species. Snakes are cold-blooded meaning they rely totally on their environment to regulate their own body temperature. This is something that should be replicated in their captive environment. Because Kings and Milksnakes are of various sizes a vivarium should be of an appropriate size to house the adult, providing a thermal gradient,
eg: a hot end and a cooler end. Smaller cages should be used for hatchlings as these will make the snake feel more secure and it will be easier for it to find it's food. As the snake grows so should the size of it's enclosure. Many breeders and hobbyists use racking systems to house there snakes. A rack system looks similar to a bookcase. Each row holds several plastic containers. These pull out from the rack like a drawer. A lot of rack systems are "lidless"; they are built so that the cages slide in flush with the row above of the next row, which acts like a lid. This is heated by heat tape which runs along the back of the boxes, which heats one end of the enclosure, providing a thermal gradient. Heat tape must be controlled by a thermostat, in order to maintain the recommended hot spot for the species and the cooler end would be to the front.

Hides
Reptiles because of there secretive nature should always be provided with at least two hide one in the warm end of there enclosure the other in the cooler, these can be as simple as a clean ice cream tub with a hole cut in it or a terracotta plant pot turned upside down with an access hole drilled through the top or a commercially brought hide made of plastic or resin

Substrate
A variety of substrates are suitable for housing Kings & Milks including Sterilized bark chippings or aspen bedding, astro tuft, newspaper and paper towels are often used in racking systems but are not very pleasing to the eye when used in other forms of housing. Pine & Cedar shaving should never be used as these can be potentially dangerous to the snakes as they could digest some when they are being fed, and the fumes from the shavings could cause respitory problems.

Heating
A thermostat is a must to control the temperature no matter what heating solution you use. The temperature for most Kingsnakes & Milksnakes is 84-88 degrees F on the warm end and 70-75 degrees at the cooler end. Heat mats can be used and are ideal for aquarium type tanks, these should be placed under the cage no more than 1 third of the floor area so as to allow for a thermal gradient. Ceramic lamps with a guard to stop the snakes accidentally burning themselves is another popular option, heat cable can be used in rack systems.

Humidity
Relative humidity should be 40-60% Humidity plays a big role in how well a snake sheds it's skin, the higher end of the scale can be achieved by spraying the cage with a fine mister when the snake is approaching it's shedding cycle e.g.: when it's eyes turn cloudy. Or providing it with a wet box essentially all a wet box consists of is a plastic container filled with damp sphagnum moss with an access hole cut in it, the container should be of the size that the snake can curl up loosely in it.

Feeding
Hatchling Kings & Milks should be fed a pinkie mouse every 3 to 4 days increasing to 2 as the snake grows progressing on to fuzzy mice then mice once a week, as a general rule the food item should be just slightly larger than the snake's widest part of its body. Kingsnakes & Milksnakes will eat other snakes that is why they should be housed separately, in the wild there diet will consist of rodents and reptiles, including Rattlesnakes, to which they are immune from there venom. Defrosted rodents are the best option as they don't bite back; also they can be brought in bulk and stored in the freezer. Occasionally a snake may refuse to eat this may be for a variety of reasons including, improper environmental conditions, it is approaching a slough, it is gravid, it has some sort of illness. If it has been given the right environment, it is not in shed and not gravid it may be ill and professional vetenary advice should be sort. Another possible reason that a snake will not eat in the winter months is that it is preparing it's self for hibernation. If you suspect this is the case do not leave the snake up, hibernate it.

Hibernation
To hibernate a snake for the winter, make sure it has had no food for two weeks and that the temperature is normal during this time allowing the snake to fully digest it's last meal and empty it's guts. After this the temperature should be lowered gradually over a few weeks until its 55-60 degree F . The snake should not be fed during this period but fresh drinking water should be available at all times. After 10-12 weeks the snake can gradually be warmed up over a two week period and can then be offered food again.

Breeding
After hibernation and approx 3 weeks into a normal eating pattern for the female they can be introduced to one another, males will sometimes not eat at this time being more interested in breeding than eating. Once several copulations have been witnessed or the female looks fatter mid body they should be separated. The female should be given a laying box. A plastic container big enough for her to coil loosely in it filled with damp sphagnum moss. Expect her to lay her eggs from 5-14 days after she has shed. The eggs when they are laid should be removed to another container two thirds filled with damp vermiculite ( when a handful is squeezed in the palm of the hand only a small amount of water should be produced. ). Do not rotate the eggs, and don't unnecessarily handle them. The box should have a fitted lid, and the humidity inside should be 100%, some condensation will form on the lid if this is too much and is dripping on the eggs, the vermiculite is too wet and a little dry should be sprinkled over the surface to take up the moisture. The eggs should be checked weekly removing the lid will give a good exchange of air. The Eggs should be incubated at 80-83 degrees F, expect them to hatch after 58-66 days.